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P.O. Box 14572, Scottsdale, AZ. 85267. Tel: 480-258-1050
New Product SHOWCASE from Mac's Modeling,LLC. updated 08/06/2013
This page is just to showcase a new product. New from (Click on the thumbnails to enlarge the pictures.) Over the
weekend I completed the shorter nose for the 1976 M23, (AZMP M23 1218) along with the
sub-frame. Which means I am one step closer to offering the complete trans-kits
for the 76 versions.
The sub
frame was quite difficult to produce, but I am very pleased with the result.
It comes in 3 pieces.
The
sub-frame will come as part of the Short nose,
which will include the wings
(which will be ready WE 7/27/13)
and at least templates for the wing end plates.
As usual I made some wing end plates from 0.015" thick aluminum sheet, using the same template you will receive with the set, to show how they look. Once the endplates were attached, I fitted the "gurney flaps" on the rear edge of the wings and painted them, first with Tamiya white "fine" primer, followed by Tamiya TS-26 Pure white. At the same time I painted the nose While these were curing I painted the sub-frame with Tamiya Aluminum
After a
couple of days, I masked off the nose, to paint the chevron. I did this very
quickly as with all these little "showcase" projects. I painted it with
a combination of 2 very thin coats of TS-36, followed by 3 very fine coats of
Tamiya MS-8, then finished off with very fine coats of MS-9 until I was happy
with the color.
There was no sanding between coats, and probably 1 minute maximum between
coats. I removed the masking tape approx. 2 minutes after the last coat. The
actual color is slightly darker once it completely dries, so I suggest you do
all the body and wing painting at the same time using the exactly the same
process on them. Because it will be unlikely to reproduce the exact same color
again.
So this is how the set can look, you can make it look better with more care. After I completed this I checked all the images I have from 1976, when I realized the nose/wing configuration was different for the Japanese GP, which was what I had been looking at when I positioned the angle of the front wings. If you are building a kit for any race other than Japan, you will need to remove the rear pin on the front wings and fill in the rear dimple in the sides of the nose, that way you will be able to give the wings the lower angle, as can be seen here. I have not attached the wings in that picture, but the wing on the right is a lower angle and has the decal on for the British GP.
Also I
completed the molds for, what I call suspension "firewalls".
AZMP M23 1210. The framework that you mount the suspension parts to
and the nose sub-frame,
that is exposed when the nose is removed.
This set, which includes the front
wall and two sub walls behind,
can be used for versions from 1975 onwards.
To allow these parts to be used you will need to modify the kit body, top and bottom. Use the template supplied. Cut it out and attach it to the top of the body and cut the body to match the template and drill the new hole for the windscreen locating pin (for the 1976 version) being a little more careful about it than I was. The modification to the bottom is very easy I marked the parts that need to be removed with a green felt tip. I removed the parts with a "sprue" cutter and then sanded the excess off.
Send your order to orders@macsmodeling.com, put AZRM in the subject line and how many you would like in the body of the email, or use the order form and send it to the same email address, the same way.
Mac
Links to previous Showcase items.
Scale
Spark plug wire AZRM colored heat shrink tubing
1:12 scale Motorcycle chains
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