I started this project using a
Minichamps Jordan 191, 1:18 scale Michael Schumacher "Donor"
car.
It was completely dismantled.
Care must be taken when removing the seat, front wheel, steering
assembly so as not to break it. (Click on the Thumbnails to
enlarge the picture.)
As this is a Minichamps model
the decals can be removed very easily. Just lift the corner of
the decal with a modeling knife and peal off with a pair of
tweezers. Some of the "Decals" are not decals and are
painted on. These are fairly easily removed with acetone (nail
polish remover) dipped "Q-tips".
Once all markings were removed
I sanded the parts so the undercoat would take better. I also
defined the body panels better using a scriber (from Micro
Mark).
Here you can see the
definition around the air box. Where the panels would separate.
The care in detail at this stage will really show in the
finished model.
From this stage the body is
sanded again and given another coat of undercoat. I used
Tamiya "Fine Surface Primer" Spray, light gray.
I left the parts once they had
the final undercoat, for 48 hours before continuing to the next
stage, which was to spray the exposed edges of all body parts
with a semi gloss Black paint.
This is so there is more
coverage on the edges when sanding the body again. I then spray
all the parts again with semi gloss black. This is helpful for
when the Carbon decals are applied.
As every part of the car will
be Carbon fiber some edges will not get covered with the decals
or it will look strange. With the black paint it looks more
realistic. The body will have to be "Dry" assembled when
applying the Carbon decals.
 At
this stage I scribe the extra lines needed to distinguish the
Carbon panels as the car was constructed.
I made templates using masking
tape for each of the panels and transferred them to the Carbon
decals (which for this project are produced by "Renaissance"
which are excellent). I did actually run out of the Carbon
decals during this project and after a few months found an
excellent substitute made by "F1 Specialties" in Nevada. |
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If all goes well, the first
application should look something like this. It is important to
make sure the Carbon flows in the correct direction. (This is
where decent reference photographs come in very handy.) I spent
approx. $80.00 on photographs from "Sutton" to get the views I
needed. Also the "Formula Perfect Manual Series Vol. 3"
was of great help and even greater help on the Tamiya 1:20 scale
FULL Detail model I am working on.
I use "Micro Sol" diluted with
water on the body, for applying decals. (I have discovered this
mix allows more freedom [read longer] to position the
decal.) Then I use a soft paintbrush and undiluted Micro Sol to
aide in conforming to the bodywork. When it is almost fitted,
just some small wrinkles, I then use a hair drier, which makes
the decals act a bit like "Heat Shrink Tubing" when the hot air
blows over it. Test it out before doing it for real on your
projects. Results are excellent.
 You
can see the results here with the Carbon flowing in different
directions on the different panels. This picture actually shows
the bodywork with the "Clear Coat" already applied and the Ford
decal applied on top of that. I use "Future" clear floor
polish. The Carbon decals absorb the first coat and I generally
apply another two coats after that.
Moving on to the modifications
to the seat. Once the seat was removed, I removed the molded-in
seat belts using a Dremel with an engraving cutter, finally
smoothing it with wire wool and sandpaper.
I applied a coat of Gray paint
to the seat and then used "Scale Motorsports" diagonal
strip e
decal "1974" but applied it straight. The decal has a
glossy finish and had to be clear Flat coated with "Model
Masters Flat Clear Lacquer Finish" to get the correct look.
As you can see the head restraint received the same treatment.
I then started working on the
seat belts. For these I decided to use the "Perfect Parts T2A"
as these have the correct belt buckles. (Be prepared to use a
lot of patience if you have never put a 1:20 set of belts
together.) The main thing is to have a VERY, VERY sharp blade in
your
 modeling
knife at ALL times or you will get "whiskers". (See the
picture.) The decals for the brand of seat belt are pretty
useless when it comes to applying them. I finished up using a
semi gloss clear coat to apply them.
To be
Continued.............. |
