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Mac's Modeling, LLC

I will not be getting anymore paints due to slow sales and the new export laws. Once the paints shown in stock are sold, that will be it. Sorry!.

Finishers paint general instructions

Below is the best translation I can make of finishers descriptions, usage and instructions.  I suggest testing on something other than you model first.  Do not hold me responsible for these instructions.

#27 - Foundation White: For general base, 2 to 3 coats should be good for covering the material color.

#18 - Foundation Pink: Good foundation for red finish like Ferrari.

#14 - Foundation Cream: Good foundation for multiple paint finish when painted layer upon layer, like: White, Yellow, Ivory and Jaguar Green.

Foundation Blue: Good foundation for silver to recreate metal.

Foundation Gray: Do not use for a resin or metal kit primer as there is no putty compound in it.  Can be used as a smooth surfacer.

#17 - Carbon Black Matte: Good for recreating carbon parts.

Semi-Gloss Black: Very smooth Semi-Gloss finish. Requires very good mixing.

Pure Black: High gloss finish, very Dark Black.

Pure Yellow: Gloss dense yellow. Can be mixed with other paints as a basic color.

#38 - Pure Green: Gloss finish, good for UK cars, straight from bottle.

#35 - Pure Blue: Gloss finish, good for Tyrrell 6 wheeler and Countach, straight from bottle.

Pure Red: Gloss finish, relatively bright. Good for Honda NSX, Mitsubishi GTO and recent Ferrari 360 Modena and 550 Marinello.

Bright Red: Brightest Red. Good for Mitsubishi Lancer EVO (after model 5), Ferrari F310B. Finish changes with more coats.

Silk Red: Standard Red. Good for Ferrari F40, F50, F310 early and late models.

#33 - Rich Red: Relatively deep Red. Good for 80's Ferrari F1, 512BB and 246 Dino.

Deep Red: Deepest Red. Perfect for Alfa Romeo.

Ivory White: Slightly "Off-white". Good for 60's and 70's white, like HONDA RA F1 and older models.

Fine Silver: Silver paint with super small particles. Produces bright metal finish. More suitable for large areas like bodywork, rather than small items.

CLK Silver (A.K.A. German Silver): Relatively dark silver. Produces a very unique finish when applied over a foundation of either, Gold, Black, Blue or Brown.

Light Gun Metal: Good for engines and other cast parts for contrast to other silvers.

#19 - Blitz Blue: Dark Blue of Mild Seven

#20 - Sky Blue: Light Blue of Mild Seven

#39 - Lemon Yellow: Gloss finish, close to Jordan Yellow, straight from bottle.

#22 - Deep Yellow: Dark Yellow for Camel Lotus.  Can be used for Williams F14 and later when mixed with Pure Yellow.

#40 - Brilliant Green: Vivid Green. Suitable for Castrol green, Benetton B192 and 193.

#41 - Bright Blue: Rothmans Blue of FW16 and later models. NOT for Porsche 956

#43 - West Black: Dark metallic, good for McLaren MP4/12 and later. Needs thorough mixing.

Formula French Blue: Suitable for older French cars.

Blue Gold: Fine cold gold, suitable for Jordan 196

Red Gold: Fine warm gold, suitable for BBS wheels.

Prost Blue: Metallic Blue, suitable for AP01

AP Blue: Developed from the original AP Grand Prix blue.  For advanced modelers.

#24 - Greenish Blue: Metallic Green for Repsol color.

#69 - Jaguar Green: Developed from the original Jaguar paints.

#63 - MP4 Red: Three part set includes, Foundation white, Red and Fluorescent pink.  Apply the foundation first, followed by the red and Fluorescent pink, to recreate the McLaren Fluorescent Red.

#71 - Formula Red: Two bottle set of Red and Orange.  Apply the orange as a foundation, followed by the Red to recreate the Ferrari F310B Marlboro Red.

#57 - Italian Red: Five bottle set includes one of each: Bright Red, Pure Red, Rich Red, Silk Red, Deep Red and Pure Thinner.

Layton Blue: Blue Green, perfectly suited for the Layton House F1 cars.

#74 - Formula Green: Italian green, suitable for Benetton B194 and Tyrrell 001